Tidying up your sat-nav installation
Some Domo-kun JDM goodness
Sound deadening the front doors
Tidying up your sat-nav installation
When I was changing my stereo, I had a great idea about how to tidy up my sat-nav and avoid having that horrible long cable trailing over everything. Here's how...
[A] This is a cigarette lighter socket to USB charging adaptor that just fits in place of the 12v blanking plug. Approximately 2 1/2" to the left of it, drill a hole just big enough to force the sat-nav end of your USB cable through (you may have to buy one with a straight plug). From memory, it's about 10mm. The grommet (Halfrauds do a mixed pack) won't fit over the plug so carefully cut it open and fit it in the hole around the cable.
[B] Take the dash out as shown on the radio page. Underneath it are three philips screws that allow the underside of the windscreen demister grille to be removed. Feed the end of the cable up through the bottom of the opening about as far as you think you'll need, and re-attach the grille. Hide the length of cable where it looks like it won't rub or get trapped. Now refit the dash and put your sat-nav back in the car - much neater I'm sure you'll agree!
Domo-kun JDM goodness
[A] I'm trying to go a bit more JDM before Japfest in May so I replaced the .303 cartridge that's been hanging from my rear view mirror for a few years with a cuddly Domo-kun character!
Sound deadening the front doors
Having recently discovered the awesomeness of dubstep, especially Benga and Skream, I was getting quite annoyed at how much the doors vibrated when giving the Pioneer the beans (© James May from Top Gear, obviously). One quick trip to K & M Acoustics in Wigan and £35 lighter, I had a box of six sheets of 'Skinz' sound deadener. The guy at the shop swore I'd need at least a packet per door. As it was, I struggled to fit just under four sheets to both doors. Here's how...
[A] This is 'Skinz' sound deadening material. According to the box it's 'Triple layer sandwich consists of two layer different density synthetic rubber covered with Aluminium foil layer. Thickness 3mm'. I went in for Dynamat Extreme but if K & M Acoustics say this is better, it's better.
[B] Open the door and start by removing this silver trim piece. It has clips all around it so it doesn't matter where you try and pop it off. If you don't remove it now, it will fly off across the garden when you take the door skin off.
[C] To remove thebutton panel, place something like a spoon under the end marked by the arrow and lever it up. A large clip will come out and the whole unit can be removed once you've unclipped the electrical connection.
[D] You now need to remove the large philips head screw you can see as this fixes the door skin to the door frame.
[E] Remove the sheet of plastic whilst trying to avoid the gungey glue stuff - it's EVIL (tip: white spirit dissolves it very quickly)! Behold, the K12 door in all it's naked glory.
[F] Ladies and gentlemen, the speaker! Looks a bit naff but has Blaupunkt embossed on the frame so not all bad. Remove the three bolts with a 10 mm socket, undo the speaker wire plug and put the speaker somewhere safe.
[G] I think this metal bar with a large block of polystyrene attached is some sort of guide for the glass as it glides up and down. Remove the 10 mm bolts and put it all somewhere safe.
[H] The remaining block of polystyrene can be rotated to free the middle tab from behind the frame and lifted out of the door.
[I] The first third sheet of Skinz went in behind the speaker. I sprayed in a load of foamclean onto the metal and cleaned it all off with some workshop towels first to ensure good adhesion. The backing paper was peeled off bit by bit and the Skinz rolled down with a wallpaper joint roller thing.
[J] The second third of a sheet went onto the only easily accessible part of the outer skin, again cleaned well first and then applied with the roller to ensure good adhesion.
[K] Slightly less than a third of a sheet went right inside the door to the left of the piece in the pic above. A two inch wide strip went into the top of the door, you can just see it in this picture.
[L] I also fitted slightly less than a third of a sheet into the top of the door above the speaker. This was a sod to get in as there was virtually no access room.
[M] I got a good half sheet onto the large smooth area of the door skin itself. I think I'm going to take them off again and add more Skinz as there are loads of smooth open areas remaining. The doors are pretty good but I can still hear some buzzing from the door skins themselves.
[N] This drawing shows where I managed to get the Skinz into the door. It's not perfect but it's made a big difference. I never normally go over 18 or 19 on the Pioneer but I put some dubstep on at 20 for a few minutes and the bass is alot clearer and you can here what's going on down below in much more detail now.
[O] This is my right hand halfway through the job! The holes in the door shell are all small and the reinforcing bars in the door don't leave much room for manouvre. Along with the sharp edges I ended up looking like I'd tried to sharpen a lawnmower with the engine still running.