Changing the oil and filter on the 1.6 petrol
The Fumoto oil change valve
Anatomy of a Nissan oil filter
Changing the oil and filter on the 1.5 dCi
Changing the oil and filter on the 1.6
Before you begin, take the car for a short drive. The oil will drain more effectively if it is warm. Start by jacking up the front end of the car and supporting it on axle stands. This diagram shows the garage jack points and where to place the axle stands.

NEVER work on a car that is only supported by the jack, ALWAYS use good quality axle stands.
[A] Start by removing the oil filler cap, this will allow the oil to drain properly. Mine was full of muck...
[B] ...so I plugged it with some rag and cleaned all the muck out with tissues.
[C] On the 1.6 litre engine, the oil drain plug is slightly towards the passenger side of the engine on the sump. It requires a 14mm spanner or socket to remove it.
[D] The warm oil will pour out. Make sure your receptacle will safely hold four and a half litres of oil. I used an Aldi washing up bowl I bought for the job.
[E] When the oil has finished draining, make sure you remove the copper crush washer from the sump plug and fit a new one as shown. Alot of people just refit the old washer but I think that for the sake of a few pence, you may as well fit a new one as Nissan recommend. When refitting it, tightening torque is 25ft/lbs.
[F] If you lie on the ground and look up under the front bumper, you will see that the filter is on the front of the engine. My Nissan garage always over tighten the filter so...
[G] ...I'd nipped to Halfords before hand and bought this cool oil filter removal tool. The metal strap has dimples on the inside of it so you can get a really tight grip on the old filter to unscrew it.
[H] This where the new oil filter screws on. Make sure none of the old rubber sealing ring is left on the engine. If there is, scrape it off making sure you don't damage the area where the new sealing ring makes contact with the engine. Before screwing it on, dip your finger in the old oil and run it around the rubber sealing ring on the new filter and screw it on until it touches the engine and then a further three-quarters of a turn. Don't over tighten it.
[I] This pic shows the new oil filter installed. You can see the part number you need to order if you need it.
[J] Finish off by adding approximately 4.5 litres of 5W30 oil, I use fully synthetic as my car is quite high mileage. In the past I've used Castrol Edge, Amsoil and Mobil 1 but this time I used Halfrauds fully synthetic for VW and Audi to save a tenner (this is largely irrelevant - this oil meets standard Acea A3 which is what the car needs). As an aside, fully synthetic oil isn't recommended for the first few thousand miles of a new engine's life because it prevents the piston rings bedding into the cylinder walls properly.
The Fumoto oil change valve
[A] I heard about the Fumoto oil change valve when I discovered the 'Bob is the oil guy' forum a few days ago. It's a forged brass tap with a stainless ball valve inside it operated by a small stainless lever. I was fed up having to go to Nissan for new crush washers every 5,000 miles so I ordered one from Quick valve. I fitted it this afternoon and will report back next weekend when I use it for the first time.

Oil changed. Makes it awesomely easy to drain your oil but you still get covered in it taking the bloomin' filter off .
Anatomy of a Nissan oil filter
[A] This is the filter for the K12 micra. My vibrating Bosch saw made short work of the casing although it feels pretty tough.
[B] Looks pretty good so far, no excess glue and the pleats are evenly spaced. The filter uses a spring plate on top to keep the gasket firmly seated between the filtration body and the base plate.
[C] These are the components in the order they go together. Casing, spring plate, filtration body, gasket and base plate.
[D] This pic shows the excellent by-pass design of the Nissan filter. If the pleats become clogged, the oil pushes a spring loaded plunger down and the oil can flow through the filter by-passing the pleats. A fully blocked oil filter can wreak havoc on the engine and oil pump.
Changing the oil and filter on the 1.5 dCi
[A] Start by removing the engine cover. It is held on by three rubber sockets and just lifts off.
[B] Remove the oil filler cap and put it to one side.
[C] Remove the under car shield. It is held on by three 10mm bolts along the front and two near the rear corners (you'll need long arms for the rear two). Remove from under the car and place somewhere safe.
[D] This pic shows the shield after the front three bolts have been removed.
[E] This pic shows the two rear 10mm bolts.
[F] With the undershield removed you can access the drain plug. It's an 8mm socket so see point [G] below...
[G] The drain plug has an 8mm socket so it was out with the ghetto tool I made when I did the gearbox oil on the 160SR.
[H] Remove the drain plug and let all the old oil drain out into a suitable container.

Leave the oil to drain for an hour and refit, with a new washer, to 15ft/lbs.
[I] Start removing the drivers side centre light by removing the two plastic poppers shown. This bit is awkward, you needs to get your hand right down behind the light and release the three plastic clips (the holes they clip onto are shown in the next pic). Now unplug the light and remove from the car.
[J] Remove the two plastic poppers shown at the top of the plastic shown in the pic. Move the plastic part as far left as you can. Ideally, it needs to be removed but I couldn't work out how to free the bottom end of it.
[K] This pic shows how awkwardly the filter is situated . It was very tight but I managed to get the removal tool on it and turn it a few degrees several times until I could spin it off.
[L] Finally off! I couldn't remove it in a 'controlled manner' for lack of space but I let go of it and it hit the ground under the car so all good !
[M] Fitting the new filter is actually easier is you lie on your back under the car and reach up !
[N] At last, new filter on!
[O] With traditional petrol engined cars, I never worried much about the oil spec's I used so long as it was a quality oil. With my engine being a euro-4 common rail diesel, it is extremely important to use the oil advised by the manufacturer. Halford's 5W40 fully synthetic diesel oil meets ACEA B4 which is the specification for my engine. Happily, it even meets Renault's specific oil specifications as well.
Putting it all back together is a simple matter of following this guide in reverse (although I did slather the five bolts that hold the plastic shield on the underside of the car with copper grease). If you change the filter as well, the you will need to refill with 4.6 litres of 10w40 oil (or 5w40 in cold weather).